I have an orchid that bloomed, and now it doesn't - any ideas?
How do you revive an orchid?
Water well from the top taking care to keep the centre of the plant dry and leave to drain. Don't let your plant stand in excess water and if the pot is placed inside another container, make sure it isn't standing in trapped water.
Rain water is recommended but distilled water can be used instead as long as you remember to add fertiliser. Feed your plant regularly with orchid fertiliser when you water. Every fourth watering leave out the fertiliser to allow any build-up of salts to be washed from the compost.
If you live in a dry atmosphere, standing the plant on a moist gravel tray will create a micro climate and assist growth.
Your moth orchid doesn't like a heavy compost but prefers its roots to dry between waterings. A well aerated, free-draining compost is best.
Potting is usually carried out every other year between March and June.
Don't reduce the night temperature below 12C (55F). Higher day-time temperatures are no problem as long as your plant is in a shady place and humidity and airflow are good.
Being accustomed to the dappled light of the forest, moth orchids dislike direct sunlight, especially through glass. Indirect sunlight is ideal.
The flowers of your moth orchid may look delicate but are extremely long lasting, often remaining in good condition for three months. When the flowers die, cut the stem back just above a node, leaving 30cm (12in) or so of stem.
Occasionally a leaf may go yellow and drop off. Don't worry; it's quite normal. If your orchid should suffer serious leaf loss, stop watering and feeding for four weeks. This can encourage new roots to be produced.
Reply:Mouth to mouth should work just fine.. but keep in mind giving it pure oxygen like you would your neighbor to assist breathing would be counter productive for a plant...
Good Luck!
Sunday, May 16, 2010
How do I get my orchid plant to reflower?
I have a Phalaenopsis orchid plant that was doing really well until recently when all the flowers started falling off. I think I overwatered it and it also got really hot over the weekend. But anyways, what do I need to do to get the flowers to grow back? Should I trim the ends off or trim down to the stem? Will they ever grow back?
How do I get my orchid plant to reflower?
Most nurseries and garden centres will stock fertilisers for orchids. There are two kinds, one kind to stimulate growth and the other is formulated to stimulate flowering. It has a higher proportion of potassium.
If you overwater it you will get a lot of yellow leaves and a sick looking plant. Most orchid potting mixes have a high content of bark and are very coarse, the water will generally go straight through.
After a few years in the same pot its a good idea to repot the orchid and this will sometime stimulate more flowers.
Reply:Orchids thrive on neglect, so don't over water. They also like a shady spot. I would trim off the old flower stem, and wait and see. I got an orchid that some one had thrown out. I fed it with a liquid fee that contains no copper, and suddenly it was in bloom. They do take a while to re-bloom once the blooms die off. I water once a week (Florida) a good soaking. Good luck.
skin rash
How do I get my orchid plant to reflower?
Most nurseries and garden centres will stock fertilisers for orchids. There are two kinds, one kind to stimulate growth and the other is formulated to stimulate flowering. It has a higher proportion of potassium.
If you overwater it you will get a lot of yellow leaves and a sick looking plant. Most orchid potting mixes have a high content of bark and are very coarse, the water will generally go straight through.
After a few years in the same pot its a good idea to repot the orchid and this will sometime stimulate more flowers.
Reply:Orchids thrive on neglect, so don't over water. They also like a shady spot. I would trim off the old flower stem, and wait and see. I got an orchid that some one had thrown out. I fed it with a liquid fee that contains no copper, and suddenly it was in bloom. They do take a while to re-bloom once the blooms die off. I water once a week (Florida) a good soaking. Good luck.
skin rash
The flowers on my phalenopsis orchid are wilting all at once.?
I have had a phal orchid for about a month or so. It was doing fine until I read that you should only water it when the 'soil' is nearly dry, instead of once a week. Also, that you should use fertilizer.
So, I used fertilizer and then waited until the soil was nearly dry, just noticing that one bloom was wilting. Now all the blooms are wilting, although there is one bud coming up (I hope).
My question is: Is it normal for all the blossoms to die at once? Is the plant dying? What do I do next?
The flowers on my phalenopsis orchid are wilting all at once.?
If you had the plant in bloom for a month, that's about as good as you can expect after being moved from its original growing area.
Time to repot into fresh mix. Don't let phals dry out - keep moist at all times with plenty of air circulation.
See source for growing information
Reply:Yeah, they pretty much all go within a couple days of each other. If taken care of and in good light (a couple hours of filtered sunlight a day, preferrably morning sun), they'll bloom again in 6 months, just like clockwork.
So, I used fertilizer and then waited until the soil was nearly dry, just noticing that one bloom was wilting. Now all the blooms are wilting, although there is one bud coming up (I hope).
My question is: Is it normal for all the blossoms to die at once? Is the plant dying? What do I do next?
The flowers on my phalenopsis orchid are wilting all at once.?
If you had the plant in bloom for a month, that's about as good as you can expect after being moved from its original growing area.
Time to repot into fresh mix. Don't let phals dry out - keep moist at all times with plenty of air circulation.
See source for growing information
Reply:Yeah, they pretty much all go within a couple days of each other. If taken care of and in good light (a couple hours of filtered sunlight a day, preferrably morning sun), they'll bloom again in 6 months, just like clockwork.
Orchid Help!!!?
What should I do after my orchid stops blooming, and all its flowers fall off? The leaves are still alive, so I'm still watering it, but does this just mean its blooming season is over?
Orchid Help!!!?
Basically yes, so take proper care of it and it should bloom again. There are many websites that talk about the prope care of orchids
Reply:Did you plant this? Orchids roots are made for the air. They do not need a lot of water and can be overwatered.
Reply:You also need to fertilize the orchid periodically.
Orchid Help!!!?
Basically yes, so take proper care of it and it should bloom again. There are many websites that talk about the prope care of orchids
Reply:Did you plant this? Orchids roots are made for the air. They do not need a lot of water and can be overwatered.
Reply:You also need to fertilize the orchid periodically.
Orchid in need of some help please.?
Orchid in full bloom in March when I received as a gift.
It has now shed the last of its blooms.
What do I do now ?
Will it bloom again?
Orchid in need of some help please.?
Yes it will, You need to trim the stalk down to where a leave is sprouting, take the dead bud look down the stem and you should see a leave sprouting somewhere along the stalk, trim just above here and it should grow back, mine always do.
Reply:Yes it will flower again. put it in a warm area with lots of light ei by the window You can but orchids feed and they also like rain water. Make sure when you water them to wash the leaves too Good Luck
Reply:I too had one given to me in flower in March. It has grown a very large leaf and it shed last flower on Tuesday. I have cut the flower stems down to 10cm. Put the plant in the coolest place in my home for 3 weeks. After that I shall put it back where it was doing so well and start watering again. Apparently this is what you should do. Lets hope it works.
Reply:u need to find out what species it is as some like hot conditions and some like cool u should never water it with tap water and make sure that the roots dont rot, they are tempremental plants so go onto an orchid site to find out what your one needs
Reply:There are many, many different sorts of orchids, but assuming it is a moth orchid (phalaenopsis) you need to treat is as follows:
1) Keep it humid - stand the pot on a tray of damp pebbles, but don't let the pot sit directly in the water or it will drown!
2) Keep it is a bright place, but not in direct sun. These plants grow stuck to the branches of trees in the wild, so would get dappled shade.
3) Keep it warm. It's home is in the tropics, where there is very little seasonal variation.
4) Do NOT cut the old flower spike off. They often re-grow from the little scales that you can see on the side of the stem.
5) Don't over-water it. Let it almost dry out (not completely!)between waterings, then give it a good soaking, letting it drain a little before putting it back on its tray of moist pebbles.
Reply:Yeah it should do! I bought my mum one for Mother's Day last year (so it's like a year and a half old) and although it spends alot of time looking like a twig it blooms a few times throughout the year! :-)
It has now shed the last of its blooms.
What do I do now ?
Will it bloom again?
Orchid in need of some help please.?
Yes it will, You need to trim the stalk down to where a leave is sprouting, take the dead bud look down the stem and you should see a leave sprouting somewhere along the stalk, trim just above here and it should grow back, mine always do.
Reply:Yes it will flower again. put it in a warm area with lots of light ei by the window You can but orchids feed and they also like rain water. Make sure when you water them to wash the leaves too Good Luck
Reply:I too had one given to me in flower in March. It has grown a very large leaf and it shed last flower on Tuesday. I have cut the flower stems down to 10cm. Put the plant in the coolest place in my home for 3 weeks. After that I shall put it back where it was doing so well and start watering again. Apparently this is what you should do. Lets hope it works.
Reply:u need to find out what species it is as some like hot conditions and some like cool u should never water it with tap water and make sure that the roots dont rot, they are tempremental plants so go onto an orchid site to find out what your one needs
Reply:There are many, many different sorts of orchids, but assuming it is a moth orchid (phalaenopsis) you need to treat is as follows:
1) Keep it humid - stand the pot on a tray of damp pebbles, but don't let the pot sit directly in the water or it will drown!
2) Keep it is a bright place, but not in direct sun. These plants grow stuck to the branches of trees in the wild, so would get dappled shade.
3) Keep it warm. It's home is in the tropics, where there is very little seasonal variation.
4) Do NOT cut the old flower spike off. They often re-grow from the little scales that you can see on the side of the stem.
5) Don't over-water it. Let it almost dry out (not completely!)between waterings, then give it a good soaking, letting it drain a little before putting it back on its tray of moist pebbles.
Reply:Yeah it should do! I bought my mum one for Mother's Day last year (so it's like a year and a half old) and although it spends alot of time looking like a twig it blooms a few times throughout the year! :-)
Orchid - Vanda Miss Joaquim?
During my recent visit to Singapore I bought a Vanda Miss Joaquim orchid. How do I care for it? What is flowering season? Is Bombay climate ideal for it? Which fertilizer is more suitable for it? Organic or synthetic?
Kindly help.
Orchid - Vanda Miss Joaquim?
Vanda tessellata
( Vanda Orchid )
An epiphytic orchid. Linear leaves, to 18 inches long, are curved. The variable, 2 inches across flowers appear on long, arching racemes, in fall. Use epiphytic orchid potting mix in slatted baskets. Requires full light, with shade from hot sun. Water less in winter.
How to Grow this Plant:
Characteristics
Cultivar: n/a
Family: Orchidaceae
Size: Height: 0 ft. to 2 ft.
Width: 0 ft. to 1 ft.
Plant Category: orchids,
Plant Characteristics: high maintenance,
Foliage Characteristics: evergreen,
Foliage Color: green,
Flower Characteristics: showy, unusual,
Flower Color: blues, greens, yellows,
Tolerances:
Requirements
Bloomtime Range: not applicable
USDA Hardiness Zone: undefined
AHS Heat Zone: Not defined for this plant
Light Range: Part Sun to Full Sun
pH Range: 5.5 to 6.5
Soil Range: Any
Water Range: Normal to Moist
Plant Care
Fertilizing
How-tos : Fertilization for Young Plants
Young plants need extra phosphorus to encourage good root development. Look for a fertilizer that has phosphorus, P, in it(the second number on the bag.) Apply recommended amount for plant per label directions in the soil at time of planting or at least during the first growing season.
How-tos : Fertilization for Established Plants
Established plants can benefit from fertilization. Take a visual inventory of your landscape. Trees need to be fertilized every few years. Shrubs and other plants in the landscape can be fertilized yearly. A soil test can determine existing nutrient levels in the soil. If one or more nutrients is low, a specific instead of an all-purpose fertilizer may be required. Fertilizers that are high in N, nitrogen, will promote green leafy growth. Excess nitrogen in the soil can cause excessive vegetative growth on plants at the expense of flower bud development. It is best to avoid fertilizing late in the growing season. Applications made at that time can force lush, vegetative growth that will not have a chance to harden off before the onset of cold weather.
How-tos : Fertilization for Annuals and Perennials
Annuals and perennials may be fertilized using: 1.water-soluble, quick release fertilizers; 2. temperature controlled slow-release fertilizers; or 3. organic fertilizers such as fish emulsion. Water soluble fertilizers are generally used every two weeks during the growing season or per label instructions. Controlled, slow-release fertilizers are worked into the soil ususally only once during the growing season or per label directions. For organic fertilizers such as fish emulsion, follow label directions as they may vary per product.
Light
Conditions : Partial Shade
Partial Shade is defined as filtered light found beneath trees with high limbs. Partial shade usually offers some protection from direct afternoon sun.
Conditions : Filtered Light
For many plants that prefer partially shady conditions, filtered light is ideal. Good planting sites are under a mid to large sized tree that lets some light through their branches or beneath taller plants that will provide some protection.
Conditions : Bright Light for Houseplants
Houseplants requiring bright light should be placed within 2 feet of an eastern or western exposure window or within 2 to 5 feet of a southern exposure window.
Conditions : Full Sun
Full Sun is defined as exposure to more than 6 hours of continuous, direct sun per day.
Watering
Conditions : Moist
Moist is defined as soil that receives regular watering to a depth of 18 inch deep, does not dry out, but does not have a drainage problem either.
Conditions : Normal Watering for Houseplants
Houseplants that require normal watering should be watered so that soil is completely saturated and excess water runs out the bottom of the pot. Never water just a little bit; this allows mineral salts to build up in the soil. The key to normal watering is to allow the top inch or two of potting soil to dry out between waterings. Check frequently as certain times of the year may dictate that you water more frequently. Also, some plants that require normal watering during the growing season, may require less during the winter months when they are dormant.
Planting
How-tos : Repotting Orchids
Potting Terrestrial Orchids Good drainage is important. Mix 3 parts fibrous peat, 3 parts coarse grit, 1 part perlite, and 1 part charcoal. Select a pot that will accommodate roots and about 2 years growth, but no more. Make sure that it has a drainage hole. Hold the orchid over the pot so that the crown is just below the rim of the pot. With your other hand, fill pot with moistened soil mix, tamping to firm. There really is no need to add crockery to the bottom of the pot, but you may want to add a small square of wire mesh or other permiable fabric over hole in bottom of pot. Potting Epiphytic Orchids Epiphytes prefer conditions where roots can be exposed, therefore, tight pots and close-contact soil mixes do not work well and will induce rot. Mix 3 parts dust-free, medium-grade bark, 1 part coarse grit or perlite, 1 part charcoal, and 1 part peat moss together, OR use a commercial orchid mix. As with the terrestrial orchid, select a pot that will accommodate roots and about 2 years growth, but no more. Make sure that it has a drainage hole. Even better, select an orchid pot, which has vertical slits down sides. Hold orchid over pot so that crown is just below the rim of the pot. With other hand, fill pot with moistened bark mix, tamping to firm. Some epiphytes do not need to be potted and prefer to grow on a mound or slab of bark. Until roots attach, tie orchid in place with fishing line. Constant humidity is a must. Support Orchids that have long flower stalks will need staking. Staking is best done as stem grows and before buds open. Many growers prefer to insert stake when potting orchid, but it is up to you.
Problems
Pest : Spider Mites
Spider mites are small, 8 legged, spider-like creatures which thrive in hot, dry conditions (like heated houses). Spider mites feed with piercing mouth parts, which cause plants to appear yellow and stippled. Leaf drop and plant death can occur with heavy infestations. Spider mites can multiply quickly, as a female can lay up to 200 eggs in a life span of 30 days. They also produce a web which can cover infested leaves and flowers.
Prevention and Control: Keep weeds down and remove infested plants. Dry air seems to worsen the problem, so make sure plants are regularly watered, especially those preferring high humidity such as tropicals, citrus, or tomatoes. Always check new plants prior to bringing them home from the garden center or nursery. Take advantage of natural enemies such as ladybug larvae. If a miticide is recommended by your local garden center professional or county Cooperative Extension office, read and follow all label directions. Concentrate your efforts on the undersides of the leaves as that is where spider mites generally live.
Pest : Mealybugs
Small, wingless, dull-white, soft-bodied insects that produce a waxy powdery covering. They have piercing/sucking mouth parts that suck the sap out of plant tissue. Mealybugs often look like small pieces of cotton and they tend to congregate where leaves and stems branch. They attack a wide range of plants. The young tend to move around until they find a suitable feeding spot, then they hang out in colonies and feed. Mealybugs can weaken a plant leading to yellow foliage and leaf drop. They also produce a sweet substance called honeydew (coveted by ants) which can lead to an unattractive black surface fungal growth called sooty mold.
Prevention and Control: Isolate infested plants from those that are not. Consult your local garden center professional or the Cooperative Extension office in your county for a legal insecticide/chemical recommendation. Encourage natural enemies such as lady beetles in the garden to help reduce population levels of mealybugs.
Pest : Whiteflies
Whiteflies are small, winged insects that look like tiny moths, which attack many types of plants. The flying adult stage prefers the underside of leaves to feed and breed. Whiteflies can multiply quickly as a female can lay up to 500 eggs in a life span of 2 months. If a plant is infested with whiteflies, you will see a cloud of fleeing insects when the plant is disturbed. Whiteflies can weaken a plant, eventually leading to plant death if they are not checked. They can transmit many harmful plant viruses. They also produce a sweet substance called honeydew (coveted by ants) which can lead to an unattractive black surface fungal growth called sooty mold.
Possible controls: keep weeds down; use screening in windows to keep them out; remove infested plants away from non-infested plants; use a reflective mulch (aluminum foil) under plants (this repels whiteflies); trap with yellow sticky cards, apply labeled pesticides; encourage natural enemies such as parasitic wasps in the garden; and sometimes a good steady shower of water will wash them off the plant.
Pest : Aphids
Aphids are small, soft-bodied, slow-moving insects that suck fluids from plants. Aphids come in many colors, ranging from green to brown to black, and they may have wings. They attack a wide range of plant species causing stunting, deformed leaves and buds. They can transmit harmful plant viruses with their piercing/sucking mouthparts. Aphids, generally, are merely a nuisance, since it takes many of them to cause serious plant damage. However aphids do produce a sweet substance called honeydew (coveted by ants) which can lead to an unattractive black surface growth called sooty mold.
Aphids can increase quickly in numbers and each female can produce up to 250 live nymphs in the course of a month without mating. Aphids often appear when the environment changes - spring %26amp; fall. They're often massed at the tips of branches feeding on succulent tissue. Aphids are attracted to the color yellow and will often hitchhike on yellow clothing.
Prevention and Control: Keep weeds to an absolute minimum, especially around desirable plants. On edibles, wash off infected area of plant. Lady bugs and lacewings will feed on aphids in the garden. There are various products - organic and inorganic - that can be used to control aphids. Seek the recommendation of a professional and follow all label procedures to a tee.
Fungi : Leaf Spots
Leaf spots are caused by fungi or bacteria. Brown or black spots and patches may be either ragged or circular, with a water soaked or yellow-edged appearance. Insects, rain, dirty garden tools, or even people can help its spread.
Prevention and Control: Remove infected leaves when the plant is dry. Leaves that collect around the base of the plant should be raked up and disposed of. Avoid overhead irrigation if possible; water should be directed at soil level. For fungal leaf spots, use a recommended fungicide according to label directions.
Diseases : Blight
Blights are cause by fungi or bacteria that kill plant tissue. Symptoms often show up as the rapid spotting or wilting of foliage. There are many different blights, specific to various plants, each requiring a varied method of control.
Miscellaneous
Glossary : pH
pH, means the potential of Hydrogen, is the measure of alkalinity or acidity. In horticulture, pH refers to the pH of soil. The scale measures from 0, most acid, to 14, most alkaline. Seven is neutral. Most plants prefer a range between 5.5 and about 6.7, an acid range, but there are plenty of other plants that like soil more alkaline, or above 7. A pH of 7 is where the plant can most easily absorb the most nutrients in the soil. Some plants prefer more or less of certain nutrients, and therefore do better at a certain pH.
Glossary : Tolerant
Tolerant refers to a plant's ability to tolerate exposure to an external condition(s). It does not mean that the plant thrives or prefers this situation, but is able to adapt and continue its life cycle.
Glossary : Fertilize
Fertilize just before new growth begins with a complete fertilizer.
camera
Kindly help.
Orchid - Vanda Miss Joaquim?
Vanda tessellata
( Vanda Orchid )
An epiphytic orchid. Linear leaves, to 18 inches long, are curved. The variable, 2 inches across flowers appear on long, arching racemes, in fall. Use epiphytic orchid potting mix in slatted baskets. Requires full light, with shade from hot sun. Water less in winter.
How to Grow this Plant:
Characteristics
Cultivar: n/a
Family: Orchidaceae
Size: Height: 0 ft. to 2 ft.
Width: 0 ft. to 1 ft.
Plant Category: orchids,
Plant Characteristics: high maintenance,
Foliage Characteristics: evergreen,
Foliage Color: green,
Flower Characteristics: showy, unusual,
Flower Color: blues, greens, yellows,
Tolerances:
Requirements
Bloomtime Range: not applicable
USDA Hardiness Zone: undefined
AHS Heat Zone: Not defined for this plant
Light Range: Part Sun to Full Sun
pH Range: 5.5 to 6.5
Soil Range: Any
Water Range: Normal to Moist
Plant Care
Fertilizing
How-tos : Fertilization for Young Plants
Young plants need extra phosphorus to encourage good root development. Look for a fertilizer that has phosphorus, P, in it(the second number on the bag.) Apply recommended amount for plant per label directions in the soil at time of planting or at least during the first growing season.
How-tos : Fertilization for Established Plants
Established plants can benefit from fertilization. Take a visual inventory of your landscape. Trees need to be fertilized every few years. Shrubs and other plants in the landscape can be fertilized yearly. A soil test can determine existing nutrient levels in the soil. If one or more nutrients is low, a specific instead of an all-purpose fertilizer may be required. Fertilizers that are high in N, nitrogen, will promote green leafy growth. Excess nitrogen in the soil can cause excessive vegetative growth on plants at the expense of flower bud development. It is best to avoid fertilizing late in the growing season. Applications made at that time can force lush, vegetative growth that will not have a chance to harden off before the onset of cold weather.
How-tos : Fertilization for Annuals and Perennials
Annuals and perennials may be fertilized using: 1.water-soluble, quick release fertilizers; 2. temperature controlled slow-release fertilizers; or 3. organic fertilizers such as fish emulsion. Water soluble fertilizers are generally used every two weeks during the growing season or per label instructions. Controlled, slow-release fertilizers are worked into the soil ususally only once during the growing season or per label directions. For organic fertilizers such as fish emulsion, follow label directions as they may vary per product.
Light
Conditions : Partial Shade
Partial Shade is defined as filtered light found beneath trees with high limbs. Partial shade usually offers some protection from direct afternoon sun.
Conditions : Filtered Light
For many plants that prefer partially shady conditions, filtered light is ideal. Good planting sites are under a mid to large sized tree that lets some light through their branches or beneath taller plants that will provide some protection.
Conditions : Bright Light for Houseplants
Houseplants requiring bright light should be placed within 2 feet of an eastern or western exposure window or within 2 to 5 feet of a southern exposure window.
Conditions : Full Sun
Full Sun is defined as exposure to more than 6 hours of continuous, direct sun per day.
Watering
Conditions : Moist
Moist is defined as soil that receives regular watering to a depth of 18 inch deep, does not dry out, but does not have a drainage problem either.
Conditions : Normal Watering for Houseplants
Houseplants that require normal watering should be watered so that soil is completely saturated and excess water runs out the bottom of the pot. Never water just a little bit; this allows mineral salts to build up in the soil. The key to normal watering is to allow the top inch or two of potting soil to dry out between waterings. Check frequently as certain times of the year may dictate that you water more frequently. Also, some plants that require normal watering during the growing season, may require less during the winter months when they are dormant.
Planting
How-tos : Repotting Orchids
Potting Terrestrial Orchids Good drainage is important. Mix 3 parts fibrous peat, 3 parts coarse grit, 1 part perlite, and 1 part charcoal. Select a pot that will accommodate roots and about 2 years growth, but no more. Make sure that it has a drainage hole. Hold the orchid over the pot so that the crown is just below the rim of the pot. With your other hand, fill pot with moistened soil mix, tamping to firm. There really is no need to add crockery to the bottom of the pot, but you may want to add a small square of wire mesh or other permiable fabric over hole in bottom of pot. Potting Epiphytic Orchids Epiphytes prefer conditions where roots can be exposed, therefore, tight pots and close-contact soil mixes do not work well and will induce rot. Mix 3 parts dust-free, medium-grade bark, 1 part coarse grit or perlite, 1 part charcoal, and 1 part peat moss together, OR use a commercial orchid mix. As with the terrestrial orchid, select a pot that will accommodate roots and about 2 years growth, but no more. Make sure that it has a drainage hole. Even better, select an orchid pot, which has vertical slits down sides. Hold orchid over pot so that crown is just below the rim of the pot. With other hand, fill pot with moistened bark mix, tamping to firm. Some epiphytes do not need to be potted and prefer to grow on a mound or slab of bark. Until roots attach, tie orchid in place with fishing line. Constant humidity is a must. Support Orchids that have long flower stalks will need staking. Staking is best done as stem grows and before buds open. Many growers prefer to insert stake when potting orchid, but it is up to you.
Problems
Pest : Spider Mites
Spider mites are small, 8 legged, spider-like creatures which thrive in hot, dry conditions (like heated houses). Spider mites feed with piercing mouth parts, which cause plants to appear yellow and stippled. Leaf drop and plant death can occur with heavy infestations. Spider mites can multiply quickly, as a female can lay up to 200 eggs in a life span of 30 days. They also produce a web which can cover infested leaves and flowers.
Prevention and Control: Keep weeds down and remove infested plants. Dry air seems to worsen the problem, so make sure plants are regularly watered, especially those preferring high humidity such as tropicals, citrus, or tomatoes. Always check new plants prior to bringing them home from the garden center or nursery. Take advantage of natural enemies such as ladybug larvae. If a miticide is recommended by your local garden center professional or county Cooperative Extension office, read and follow all label directions. Concentrate your efforts on the undersides of the leaves as that is where spider mites generally live.
Pest : Mealybugs
Small, wingless, dull-white, soft-bodied insects that produce a waxy powdery covering. They have piercing/sucking mouth parts that suck the sap out of plant tissue. Mealybugs often look like small pieces of cotton and they tend to congregate where leaves and stems branch. They attack a wide range of plants. The young tend to move around until they find a suitable feeding spot, then they hang out in colonies and feed. Mealybugs can weaken a plant leading to yellow foliage and leaf drop. They also produce a sweet substance called honeydew (coveted by ants) which can lead to an unattractive black surface fungal growth called sooty mold.
Prevention and Control: Isolate infested plants from those that are not. Consult your local garden center professional or the Cooperative Extension office in your county for a legal insecticide/chemical recommendation. Encourage natural enemies such as lady beetles in the garden to help reduce population levels of mealybugs.
Pest : Whiteflies
Whiteflies are small, winged insects that look like tiny moths, which attack many types of plants. The flying adult stage prefers the underside of leaves to feed and breed. Whiteflies can multiply quickly as a female can lay up to 500 eggs in a life span of 2 months. If a plant is infested with whiteflies, you will see a cloud of fleeing insects when the plant is disturbed. Whiteflies can weaken a plant, eventually leading to plant death if they are not checked. They can transmit many harmful plant viruses. They also produce a sweet substance called honeydew (coveted by ants) which can lead to an unattractive black surface fungal growth called sooty mold.
Possible controls: keep weeds down; use screening in windows to keep them out; remove infested plants away from non-infested plants; use a reflective mulch (aluminum foil) under plants (this repels whiteflies); trap with yellow sticky cards, apply labeled pesticides; encourage natural enemies such as parasitic wasps in the garden; and sometimes a good steady shower of water will wash them off the plant.
Pest : Aphids
Aphids are small, soft-bodied, slow-moving insects that suck fluids from plants. Aphids come in many colors, ranging from green to brown to black, and they may have wings. They attack a wide range of plant species causing stunting, deformed leaves and buds. They can transmit harmful plant viruses with their piercing/sucking mouthparts. Aphids, generally, are merely a nuisance, since it takes many of them to cause serious plant damage. However aphids do produce a sweet substance called honeydew (coveted by ants) which can lead to an unattractive black surface growth called sooty mold.
Aphids can increase quickly in numbers and each female can produce up to 250 live nymphs in the course of a month without mating. Aphids often appear when the environment changes - spring %26amp; fall. They're often massed at the tips of branches feeding on succulent tissue. Aphids are attracted to the color yellow and will often hitchhike on yellow clothing.
Prevention and Control: Keep weeds to an absolute minimum, especially around desirable plants. On edibles, wash off infected area of plant. Lady bugs and lacewings will feed on aphids in the garden. There are various products - organic and inorganic - that can be used to control aphids. Seek the recommendation of a professional and follow all label procedures to a tee.
Fungi : Leaf Spots
Leaf spots are caused by fungi or bacteria. Brown or black spots and patches may be either ragged or circular, with a water soaked or yellow-edged appearance. Insects, rain, dirty garden tools, or even people can help its spread.
Prevention and Control: Remove infected leaves when the plant is dry. Leaves that collect around the base of the plant should be raked up and disposed of. Avoid overhead irrigation if possible; water should be directed at soil level. For fungal leaf spots, use a recommended fungicide according to label directions.
Diseases : Blight
Blights are cause by fungi or bacteria that kill plant tissue. Symptoms often show up as the rapid spotting or wilting of foliage. There are many different blights, specific to various plants, each requiring a varied method of control.
Miscellaneous
Glossary : pH
pH, means the potential of Hydrogen, is the measure of alkalinity or acidity. In horticulture, pH refers to the pH of soil. The scale measures from 0, most acid, to 14, most alkaline. Seven is neutral. Most plants prefer a range between 5.5 and about 6.7, an acid range, but there are plenty of other plants that like soil more alkaline, or above 7. A pH of 7 is where the plant can most easily absorb the most nutrients in the soil. Some plants prefer more or less of certain nutrients, and therefore do better at a certain pH.
Glossary : Tolerant
Tolerant refers to a plant's ability to tolerate exposure to an external condition(s). It does not mean that the plant thrives or prefers this situation, but is able to adapt and continue its life cycle.
Glossary : Fertilize
Fertilize just before new growth begins with a complete fertilizer.
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Orchid care - will it regrow from roots?
I have acquired a small orchid plant. The top has died off - there are no leaves or sign of leaf shoots. However, when I tipped it out of its pot to survey the damage one branch of the roots is fat and green and healthy with several one-inch root-things budding off it. How do I help it along?
Orchid care - will it regrow from roots?
I have two in my home now do not think they will come back on there own. this is a joke. Ok.here is the deal first find a good orchid bark. look at lowes or home depot.You will need an orchid pot also.
place some small gravel in the bottom of pot then place bark fill only 3/4s to the top then trim off the dead roots the brown ones now take the plant put on top of bark in the pot just up to the leaves or just below.
next fill up the pot with more bark pack lightly.
then place into sink fill sink up with water almost to top of pot
let stand a good ten min or so.
then let out water let drain well.
then place plant in a drip tray fill it with Small gravel set orchid on this in an east window. ok now water only when bark looks real dry, mist every so often .fertilize ONLY every ten to fifteen days with and orchid food.
they have some now to even promote blooms. the type of orchid you have is the easiest to grow
Reply:Hi there, iv recently bought an orchid myself,beautiful mine is a miltonia warsecwizzii..
what kind of orchid is it,it essential to know this or describe it, the flower,leaves, what its habit is,is it an ephipyte(This means they need a special light-growing medium such as bark,coconut shell etc which provides rapid drainage and good air circulation around the roots. Your orchid should come planted in the right type of medium. When you repot the plant be sure you use a similar material.
) Depending upon conditions, you may need to water orchids only once or twice a week during the summer. Be sure and allow the growing medium to dry before watering again. Excessive water will cause the roots to rot,this also depends on what genus your orchid belongs to
it is natural for only some orchids to die back but not all.
get back to us!! :)
Im afraid your Orchid has a disease and may not come back. Phals do not die back to the root and any other orchid that does this,well its usually their habit as in, they sprout a flower spike straight from the root.
There are some deciduous orchids but generally orchids should not lose a lot of leaves at once. Some leaf loss of old foliage in natural, especially in autumn but excessive leaf loss will usually indicate that the plant has been kept too wet. Orchids do not like to be kept too wet, should not be allowed to stand in water and should therefore always be watered from the top and left to drain.
A plant in this state should be allowed to dry out, all dead foliage removed and encouraged to start growing by being kept warm and humid. Hopefully then new leafs and roots will be produced. Of course in severe cases over watering will kill the plant.
Jion a local Orchid society if you are serious
Reply:It is natural for orchids to die back. Store the healthy looking bulb in a dry place or you can leave it in the pot and water it when it is ready to come back. what kind of orchid is it?
Orchid care - will it regrow from roots?
I have two in my home now do not think they will come back on there own. this is a joke. Ok.here is the deal first find a good orchid bark. look at lowes or home depot.You will need an orchid pot also.
place some small gravel in the bottom of pot then place bark fill only 3/4s to the top then trim off the dead roots the brown ones now take the plant put on top of bark in the pot just up to the leaves or just below.
next fill up the pot with more bark pack lightly.
then place into sink fill sink up with water almost to top of pot
let stand a good ten min or so.
then let out water let drain well.
then place plant in a drip tray fill it with Small gravel set orchid on this in an east window. ok now water only when bark looks real dry, mist every so often .fertilize ONLY every ten to fifteen days with and orchid food.
they have some now to even promote blooms. the type of orchid you have is the easiest to grow
Reply:Hi there, iv recently bought an orchid myself,beautiful mine is a miltonia warsecwizzii..
what kind of orchid is it,it essential to know this or describe it, the flower,leaves, what its habit is,is it an ephipyte(This means they need a special light-growing medium such as bark,coconut shell etc which provides rapid drainage and good air circulation around the roots. Your orchid should come planted in the right type of medium. When you repot the plant be sure you use a similar material.
) Depending upon conditions, you may need to water orchids only once or twice a week during the summer. Be sure and allow the growing medium to dry before watering again. Excessive water will cause the roots to rot,this also depends on what genus your orchid belongs to
it is natural for only some orchids to die back but not all.
get back to us!! :)
Im afraid your Orchid has a disease and may not come back. Phals do not die back to the root and any other orchid that does this,well its usually their habit as in, they sprout a flower spike straight from the root.
There are some deciduous orchids but generally orchids should not lose a lot of leaves at once. Some leaf loss of old foliage in natural, especially in autumn but excessive leaf loss will usually indicate that the plant has been kept too wet. Orchids do not like to be kept too wet, should not be allowed to stand in water and should therefore always be watered from the top and left to drain.
A plant in this state should be allowed to dry out, all dead foliage removed and encouraged to start growing by being kept warm and humid. Hopefully then new leafs and roots will be produced. Of course in severe cases over watering will kill the plant.
Jion a local Orchid society if you are serious
Reply:It is natural for orchids to die back. Store the healthy looking bulb in a dry place or you can leave it in the pot and water it when it is ready to come back. what kind of orchid is it?
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